Another shirt from the same haul: I bought this one because of it’s very nice hand, and because of it’s interesting construction.
It is made from stitched double cloth – pictures approximately 4 times actual size:
Inside, a simple check (10x10 ends/picks) Some stitching can be seen.
Outside, a very long warp colour repeat, including the occasional metallic. In the detail picture, some stitching can be seen.
An overview – I think I have managed to get the whole warp repeat (but not the whole weft colour repeat):
It is made of what looks like singles, in a "frog’s hair" grist, sett at approximately 16 ends per cm and layer.
One oddity is the size of the stitching repeat: every 22:nd back warp is caught by every 20:th front pick. (It ought to be much easier to thread, had the warpwise stitching been done on something divisible by 10 – the colour repeat? Yes, I know it is woven by industry, but, you know, even industry have to thread their looms, with one end per heddle, done by hand – at least the first time a new pattern is to be woven...)
I did an analysis of the structure. Because of the "difficult" warp colour order of the front layer, I did it from the back. Below, the front (bottom) layer is all light turquoise, but the back (top) has the correct 10/10 black/white colour marked.