29/09/2014

Doodling for Halloweave

Well, that is not the whole truth.

By February I have to have something for an exhibition. That something has to be hung from a dowel, it can be max 80 cm wide and 160 cm long. It can also be some 10-15 cm deep.
So of course I want to weave something with a little depth :-)

The first thing that came to mind was a three-layer structure with offset layer-crossings, sort of like this: (never mind the colours, I have to see what I am thinking, here)


But... if that is going to be hung from the top, it will fall to be all flat. (Unless: maybe some strategically placed wires? But then: would wires survive packing?)

So I thought that maybe the outer layer(s) can be made longer? That way there will always be some depth, admittedly not much.

Hm. *Could* the outer layers be made longer?

As my scanner is out to lunch I tried to do all this drawing on the 'puter. (As you can see, I wasn't entirely lucky, but I think I can understand what I mean, at least)
By some cutting and pasting I think I have it, sort of:


Of course, this would require three warp beams, but perhaps the third can be improvised?

New try, only requiring two beams (I think):


But the middle layer would not be visible. Is that a good or a bad idea?

So I tried yet another idea, where all layers would have their "length of fame":

(yes, I just "painted over" the old colour... it is but a sketch, after all)

... and I am back to three beams, again.

What this has to do with Halloweave? Oh, over at Weavolution Sarah started a "Halloweave House" about 3D weaving...

23/09/2014

The innards of one table-top mangle



(Sorry, the workshop is too narrow, and the assembled mangle is too heavy to move for just a "beauty shot")

This one is different from the one pictured here, in that it doesn't have a protector sheet. Instead, this one is made to just send the mangle goods through - if you want harder mangling, you will have to send it through again. (And, possibly again, and again...)

It came to me in need of some tinkering. Here are the pieces, "top-down":


When all the detachable pieces are taken out, what remains is the frame and the table (in two pieces, hinged to make it shallower. Under the front table, there is a "manual" and an admonition to store it safely:


On the right-hand side there is a gear of sorts, to make the bottom roller go faster than one wants to crank. (I had it off to clean it, but mounted it before I thought to take pictures)


Next, the bottom roller (the one with the gear and crank at the right-hand side) is dropped into place. The gears mesh with a bit of jiggling:


Then the top roller goes in, on top of the bottom one. The gears at the left-hand side mesh.


Two smallish pieces, one on each side, to press down on the top roller, go under the heavy cross piece. The spring just sits on top of the cross piece.


To complete the assembling, the top piece is put into place. It is fastened with 4 screws, two on each side.


(The whole shebang has five screws only - one for the bottom gear, and 4 to hold the top.)

To control the pressure, you use the top screw.

A detail shot of the "manual" (click to make bigger):


An attempt at translation:

Manual
Grease the wheel screw an all bearings. Turn the wheel screw to the right, to make the rollers press hard against each other.
The clothes should be folded with seams, buttons, monograms [embroidered, my note] to the inside. Let the rollers take the clothes over the whole width. The clothes should not be let to go around the rollers. The mangling ought to be done over the whole width of the rollers, that is not on one side only. Dents in the rollers that can occur because of seams, buttons etc will even out over time and will not impede the good [quality, working?] of the mangle.
When mangling is done, turn the wheel screw to the left.

Ystad [town is south Sweden] Foundry & Mechanical Workshop [ltd]

These old mangles are slightly simpler than a spinning wheel - and only marginally more complex than a traditional (Swe) loom (mechanically, that is). And they work as well...

28/08/2014

More museum examples

On request from Meg I continued looking in the museum catalogue.
And I found two more "interesting" descriptions:

Weaving reed

Material: Wood, Textile
Technique: Knotted
Function: Dividing the warp

The [weaving] reed sits near the cloth beams [yes, plural - my note] in a weaving loom, directly in front of the shafts. It's function is to divide the threads.
The rectangular reeds consist of a wooden frame, into which thin blades of wood (in one instance metal) are mounted with a textile band.


Weaving shuttle

Material: wood
Technique: carpentered [my dictionary says "carpenter" is a verb, so it must be correct...?]
Function: weaving

Shuttle. A cloth consists of two thread systems, warp and weft. The warp is tensioned during weaving and is crossed at right angles by the weft. With the help of the shuttle, the weft is inserted from side to side between the warp ends. The weft can go over and under the warp ends. With a treadle loom the lifting and lowering of the warp ends is done by the treadles. The shuttle is [quill-shaped?], with a hole in which a dowel is fixed. The weft is fastened around the dowel. One [of the shuttles] is patterned in two places.


In all fairness: at Murberget, they have elected to transcribe the text in the old paper catalogue. These two artefacts have no pictures, but in many instances they show the handwritten paper entry, often from the 1920-1940ies. Here is one example.
(I have often marvelled at what the museum generalists came up with a hundred years ago... but that is another story.)

So, Murberget uses the original texts/descriptions - most other museums do not. I remember looking in the Nordiska museets paper catalogue, and... let me say I can understand why they do not transcribe indiscriminately.

However, what is interesting about yesterday's post is that it is written after 1991. As I recall, there were several books about spinning and spinning wheels out by then, even written by Swedish authors... And even generalists should be able to read?

Now, to cheer us all up, a picture:


The picture comes from here.

Be sure to click the pic to biggify!


27/08/2014

The, I don't know, dangers, maybe? of museum catalogues...



The only thing I did was to make another spinning wheel search, this time on the site of Murbergets museum.
After some dead tries I finally found out how to search the whole site, and got some 150 hits.
Several were not spinning wheels (even though they were so tagged), and most wheels had no pictures.

As I was clicking through the detail pages, I came across this text.
Due to the extraordinary text, I felt I had to let you all know how a spinning wheel can be described (my translation, which probably can be re-written to something more fluent, but I think this captures the flavour of the original)(Swedish original below):

Material: Wood, Metal
Technique: Turned, Nailed
Function: To ply thread(s)

Monogram - Initials - Writing: IE Holm
Maker - Location - Affirmed: Teodor Bylund

[The] spinning wheel is used to make thread/yarn from textile material (wool/flax). The wheel itself makes the flyer move. The treadle makes the wheel go round.

The spinning wheel consists of several nicely turned wooden parts. The "table" has three legs, of which two are connected to a crosspiece which also houses the treadle. From the treadle there is a vertical shaft leading to an S-shaped iron. This is an axle, which goes through forks and wheel. The two forks have an upright each, everything fastens to the "table". The "table" is slanted. The flyer mountings are located behind the wheel. A bigger lump comes up and is penetrated by a horizontal stave, at the ends of which two pillars are mounted, the flyer sits between these. The distaff's mounting piece is located at the back end of the table. Newly turned (1991) by Teodor Bylund. The head of the distaff has its own number 13918. At the back end there is a knob for carrying. Drive band is missing. Marked "I E Holm".

(No, I have not used google translate, or any other translation software... it really (REALLY) says there is a bigger lump coming through the table, and that there is a carrying knob at the back end. Try google translate yourselves, if you don't believe me!)
It is a pity there is no picture - I would have liked to see this obviously very different MOA construction.
However, for those of you having trouble with lumps and forks, here are two annotated pictures (click for readability):




OK, IF you have used the auto-translate, read the text on the museum site instead! The auto-translate makes the original Swedish totally... strange.


Material: Trä, Metall
Teknik: Svarvat, Spikat
Funktion: Tvinna tråd

Monogram - Initialer - Påskrift: I E Holm
Tillverkare - Tillverkningsort - Säker: Teodor Bylund

Spinnrocken används för att göra tråd/garn av textilmaterial (ull/lin). Själva hjulet ser till att vingspindeln rör sig. Trampan sätter fart på hjulet.

Spinnrocken består av flera fint svarvade trädelar. "Bordet" har tre ben, varav två fäster nedtill i en tvärslå där också trampan sitter. Från trampan leder en vertikal axel till ett S-format järn. Detta är en axel, vilken löper genom gafflar och rockhjul. De två gafflarna har varsin stötta, alltsammans fäster i "bordet". "Bordet" är snedvinklat. Bakom hjulet sitter vingspindelns fästanordning. En större klump går upp och genomborras av en horisontell stav, i vilkens ändar två pelare fästs, vingspindeln sitter mellan dessa. Längst bak på bordet sitter rockhuvudets ställning. Nysvarvad (1991) av Teodor Bylund. Rockhuvudet eget nummer 13918. Längst bak en knopp att bära i. Drivbandet saknas. Märkt: "I E Holm".


19/08/2014

A towel from IKEA


From time to time there are discussions about combining waffle weave (sometimes called "honeycomb", but not by me) with plain weave.

Often the discussions get heated, with arguments like "the different shrinkage rates makes them IMPOSSIBLE to combine". The correct answer is, of course, that one can do exactly as one wants - the weaving police may hinder one from getting such a combination into an exhibition, but the result will not (for instance) explode, or otherwise cause harm.
However, the results may cause disappointment.

The other day I found a towel from IKEA, combining a plain weave grid with squares of waffle weave. It has been in use for several years, washed many many times, and it still functions as a towel.


The plain weave bands pucker, and there is some tracking.


The yarns look like cotton 16/2, possibly low-twist 20/2, and after all shrinkage there are 18-20 ends/picks per centimetre.

It was very difficult to count ends per cell - try as I might, I got 7 ends/picks per repeat. (I did poke at it with a needle, but one does not always get popular if one starts to actually unravel other ppl's textiles...)

The most usual waffle weave has one more pick than it has ends. There are ways to reduce the number of picks, like the green and the red below.


I decided I had mis-counted. Even enlarging the pictures, I can't be sure - but looking at the towel, the longest floats look very much alike both warp- and weft-wise. (And it is impossible to decide which way is which, as there are hems on all sides.) Much enlarged:


So I added the plain weave to the 7 ends/8 picks repeat.


(I left an empty shaft and treadle to make it easier to see how the addition works)

This means one can duplicate an IKEA towel on just 6 shafts and 7 treadles. (Don't have more than 6 treadles? As it happens, one of the "waffle" treadles has one of the plain weave lifts:


And... should someone tell you it is IMPOSSIBLE to combine waffle and plain, you can always argue that what IKEA can do must be possible.

31/07/2014

Dräll pulleys, another configuration

Yet another way to combine/mount pulleys for multishaft weaving:



I had never seen dräll pulleys like these before. (Spotted at a flea market near me, and way too expensive just "for fun")

I think this way to mount them is asking for trouble: if the cross piece from which they are hung doesn't have the correct size, they will tilt. Even with the "correct" cross piece, there will be a completely un-necessary force on the axle.

No, if ever I go for dräll pulleys again, I think I will stay with the vertical arrangement.

15/07/2014

A plethora of pegs


or: what am I looking at, here?


This little wheel is possibly the most well-pegged wheel I have ever seen. The legs are pegged in (straight, or slanting, into the table, so no way to get them out), the uprights too. The MOA is, of course, pegged in place. The back maiden has a slanting peg to secure it to the MOA. Both leathers are pegged in place, through the maidens - the back one with a slanting peg.

All the spokes are pegged to (through) the wheel rim, of course.

BUT: there is one oddity: the secondary uprights are NOT pegged, neither at the top (just inserted in slanting holes), nor at the bottom, where they instead are nailed, with metal nails.

Uprights and front leg pegged from the side:

One of the two nails present:

MOA and maidens:

Drive wheel - rim joins are pegged from the side, spokes through the rim (no "seating holes" for the spokes into the outer rim):

Treadle:

There are bearings for the wheel, too. Guess what - they are pegged in place:

So: what am I looking at, here? Is this an exercise piece?
First, all the pegs. Not only the number, but so many of them are slanting! It is natural to "secure" the leathers, but with slanting pegs through the maidens? (The orifice leather is sewn, though I have seen pegged ones before) The front maiden once had a nut, now lost.
Next, the table decorations. Rather a lot of work, on a piece of wood with a knot almost in the middle of the decoration? And with several (what-do-you-call-it? "help lines"?) showing? (There is one more knot at the back end of the table, too, making three knots showing on top of the table). All "ends" are notched, front and back of the table, front and back of the hole for the tensioning block.


Then there are two (at least) different woods: the wheel rim, the foot plate and the nut under the MOA appears to be oak, while the rest appears to be birch, the table possibly pine. (In my experience, birch is the most common wood for Swedish spinning wheels - and they are usually one wood only).
Looking at the MOA nut, oak doesn't look ideal for making threads; the nut looks kind of "sad" - it is obviously A Good Thing this nut is not very often used.
Also the wheel bearings: thicker than usual, u-shape with "wings" fitted into the upright. They are only half of the upright's width, made of brass.
All these oddities makes me think this may be a practice piece - it is not, IMO, good enough to be a (again, what is the word here?) journeyman's qualifying piece - if, for nothing else, the two very visible knots in the table. But is HAS a maker's mark...


Oh, and it spins nicely. It is my first with a sliding hook.


(Should I add: click images to biggify?)