Yesterday I stopped before doing what I always do: rearranging the treadling for easiest actual weaving:
Unless I have very fat yarns in my double (in this case triple) cloth, I try to arrange the treadling so that I can do two picks per shuttle (layer).
It is so much faster to do two picks before having to change shuttles...
(Yes, it shows in the end product:
These are two not quite focussed pictures of double-layer shawls.
They are approximately 2 x life size, and has the ends one-by-one and the picks two-by-two.
The warps are a combination of cottons, 16/2, 20/2, 22/2 and maybe a few 30/2.
The wefts are of course only one quality per shuttle, but I don't remember which grist. The sett was probably somewhere about 10 ends/cm (25 epi).
And no, I haven't tried it for three layers.)
So: here is what I would do before sitting down to actually weave.
First: use the existing tieup, but rearrange the colour sequence.
Next: rearrange the new treadling to straight:
As I weave from bottom to top, and have an overhead beater, this is the treadling I would use, namely start in the bottom layer, working up to the top layer, as seen in the widest section of the warp.
(Yes, on the loom there will be "gaps" where the layers change. I have never seen these gaps after wet finishing - see pictures above.)
Hm.
Remembering one of my doodlings from yesterday (which did not reach publication) - another way of making more-than-two-different narrow stripes - a shift in the warp sequence can accomplish that:
1 comment:
I'm currently working on John Duncan's doublecloth using a back harness and long-eyed heddles in front. He threads the warp 2x2 - which at a fine grist doesn't seem to show very much- I've been considering rearranging the weft picks to a 2x2 arrangement. It certainly would weave faster.
I've been curious, but haven't spent the time to figure out why one side of the block has such a clean cut and the other is jagged- or in my case- the top junction vs the bottom.
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