23/08/2012

Two shawls from the profile draft challenge

Remember the Profile Draft Challenge?

This is the original profile


I wanted to make something narrower, for a shawl, runner…

This is the profile I used for weaving


What I did, to get from the original to the profile I used:
First I mirrored the profile.
Since I wanted something narrow, I took out the middle, until only the outer motifs were left.
Hmm.
Something was needed in the middle. I put in an "opposite" motif.

This would be the ends of my long and narrow weave.

I selected a short sequence to be repeated for the long "middle piece".

As it is summer at the moment, I wanted to weave something light and airy - say a summer shawl in all linen.

"Airy" - that meant some kind of lace weave. (I’m hopeless with the names/classifications of lace weaves)

I used my weaving software’s block substitution feature to create a threading - the threading named "Atwater-Bronson lace". (I use Fiberworks-PCW.)
Then I played with the tieup, and came up with two different ones that I would look both "same" and "different".
Details of the upper right-hand corner, tie-ups included:




Overviews of the whole start end:



I wound a warp long enough for two shawls - linen 16/1 in four nuances of light blue, sett at 12 ends/cm. I wove it at about 9 – 9,5 picks/cm, the theory being that "drape" in a scarf is more important crosswise than leghtwise.

For the first shawl I used a light blue linen yarn (still 16/1) for weft; for the second I choose a slightly darker blue cotton 16/2.

Lace patterns rarely show on loom (especially with no difference in colour)


Both shawls after cutting off, fringes secured prior to twisting:


The fringe twisting was difficult - linen has a mind of it’s own! First, fringes had to be twisted "backwards" (they look so much better if one uses "uptwist" - since the singles are spun z direction, the fringes should be twisted z, too). After having twisted a gazillion fringes in the s direction, there was a lot of muscle memory to overcome to do it the other way - . Next, linen is a lot stiffer than cotton, and therefore it was difficult to "place" the fringe knots consistently. (I really should re-tie all of them, but that will have to wait some time…)

After wet finishing (machine wash, normal cycle at 60 C, very short spin) I let them dry a bit, then mangled. After mangling I "polished" them with a hot iron.

The one with cotton weft, hanging on the loom:


The other one was hopeless to photograph, but here is a detail:


Linen, especially newly washed, mangled and pressed, is not famous for drape :-).
However, when it has been worn some, it becomes very soft and drapey (but then you can’t really see the pattern…)

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