So I went to town, to see their prototype. For various reasons, it was not useable as a model. So... was I interested in giving them a proposal? I was.
But.
What did I know about academic dress? Well - nothing at all. I knew that most Swedish universities did not use specific academic dress, apart from doctor's hats. I knew that there were "gowns" used in the UK, but had no idea what they looked like - except there was a lot of fabric, and weren't they black? Google? Yes (or was it Yahoo then?) - but there wasn't very much Out There 10 years ago. Library? Yes - but what to ask for? People? Yes - but where to find them? And it had to be done in six weeks...
I borrowed all books I could think of, I went to the cathedral to look at their wardrobe, I 'phoned several universtities, I found a couple of Brits. And I also had to take into consideration what the Växjö people wanted.
I came up with an idea, with no historical roots at all:

After some minor tweakings, the model was accepted, I found enough fabric (where do you buy 80 meters of fabric, any fabric, and have it delivered between christmas and new year?), made the gowns.

Several months later, I found a Yahoo list about academic dress. After a while, I dared participate on the list... The poor list members - they must have thought they had got an idiot (or at least a complete ignoramous who could barely read) among them. I had to learn a new vocabulary ("undress", anyone?), a new way of looking at pictures (the difference between a Burgon-style hood and a full-shaped one)...
In the year 2000, the Burgon Society was founded, and a year or two later I dared to join.
Now I am a fellow of the Society (and proud of it - thank you for having me!), have read a lot of literature about academic dress and its history. I know a lot more about the history and usage of distinctive dress for academics and clergy in Sweden, and I have designed gowns for a couple more universities in Sweden.
But.
Whenever I visit the Burgon Society's gatherings, I still feel an oaf... I recognise the words (well, many of them), but I'm not quite sure what they mean. I know a simple hood when I see one, but am unsure of how to distinguish a full hood from an Aberdeen style one...
I wonder which is the most interesting perspective: to be inside a culture, looking out, or the other way around? What I know is that there is a lot of head-shaking going on, whichever perspective you have...

Examples from Sweden (old and new), Portugal and England.
2 comments:
I think that's one reason I like reading Terry Pratchett - he turns accepted conventional 'wisom' on it's ear and makes you see things from a new perspective.
Congrats on the latest commission!
Just to say that I have enjoyed all your posts about cultural differences, and agree with many of your observations.
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